I'm sure it's out there and I'm searching wrong or something?
Does anyone have a good tutorial on new character creation available?
Thanks in advance
Tutorial on New Character?
Moderators: Víctor Paredes, Belgarath, slowtiger
Are you looking for a tutorial on creating your existing characters in AS, or are you trying to design a character from scratch?
If it's the latter there's some decent books on Amazon. You might also wanna take a look at this guy's books.
-g
If it's the latter there's some decent books on Amazon. You might also wanna take a look at this guy's books.
-g
The problem with your request is this...
There are as many ways to "create a new character" as there are users of the software. There isn't any one specific way to do it. Some people like to use bones, others don't use bones at all and animate only the points.
Some people put the whole character on one layer. Others break each part (legs, arms, head) into separate layers.
Some people draw the characters in AS. Some use images exported from image programs ("cut out style", like south park).
I don't know which version of AS you have or if the "low end" version comes with any pre-done characters but that would be a good place to start.
I would suggest that you learn the tools in AS first. Maybe creating a new character will seem more obvious after that.
-vern
There are as many ways to "create a new character" as there are users of the software. There isn't any one specific way to do it. Some people like to use bones, others don't use bones at all and animate only the points.
Some people put the whole character on one layer. Others break each part (legs, arms, head) into separate layers.
Some people draw the characters in AS. Some use images exported from image programs ("cut out style", like south park).
I don't know which version of AS you have or if the "low end" version comes with any pre-done characters but that would be a good place to start.
I would suggest that you learn the tools in AS first. Maybe creating a new character will seem more obvious after that.
-vern
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Reese Kaine
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:02 am
- Location: Saint Albans, WV
In a way, I'm in the same boat.
Side by side I was working on the tutorial, along with my first character. I've got a lot of the basic fundamentals down. Unfortunately, I'm still undergoing snags in the creation process.
For example: I created a full character. On the plus side, it's completely-done, visually. I have nothing left to add to it to give it any more appearance (Might be bad grammar, but it's late). On the downside there's problems with the elbow joints and layer issues. Basically, I can't seem to replicate the fan bones that were posted around a month ago.
Are there rules against posting links to *.anme files on the board (Because I could use some help in determining where exactly I'm going wrong)?
Side by side I was working on the tutorial, along with my first character. I've got a lot of the basic fundamentals down. Unfortunately, I'm still undergoing snags in the creation process.
For example: I created a full character. On the plus side, it's completely-done, visually. I have nothing left to add to it to give it any more appearance (Might be bad grammar, but it's late). On the downside there's problems with the elbow joints and layer issues. Basically, I can't seem to replicate the fan bones that were posted around a month ago.
Are there rules against posting links to *.anme files on the board (Because I could use some help in determining where exactly I'm going wrong)?
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Reese Kaine
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:02 am
- Location: Saint Albans, WV
http://pages.suddenlink.net/rk/lc-d-43.anme - One of my original problems was the fact that the arms were always going behind the back instead of in front, but I learned it was a layer problem. Now I only wish I knew how to make the fore arm/shoulder join move without it looking like it was disconnected.
But the bigger problem for me is basically trying to figure out how to get the arm bones to come together without canceling out the shape altogether.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
But the bigger problem for me is basically trying to figure out how to get the arm bones to come together without canceling out the shape altogether.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
I've edited your file, and reuploaded it here.
http://drowtales.com/~whiteradish/temp/lc-d-43-edit.zip
One thing I did was move the hair out of the way, added a couple of bones to it, then offset it back into place, so now it can move independently of the body, but it's parented to the head.
The reason the arm sleeve was moving strangely was that you didn't have points near one of the sets of fan bones. Bones can't warp areas that don't have points, like straight lines; they move stiffly there. I added 2 points.
I removed half of the arm that was under the sleeve and was poking out when it bent. You don't really need an arm under there, and I prefer to have the sleeve and the arm on the same layer. I also prefer to have the sleeve on the same layer as the shirt, so that the edge of the sleeve can be welded to the shirt, which would prevent it from being disconnected when it bends. I didn't do that here.
I also raised the fill of the forearm to be in front of the upper arm so that when it bends it doesn't bend behind the upper.
I also added 1 bone to the head, to prevent the neck from warping the face when it bent. It would be better to do it with another offset bone, but this worked well enough.
So check the file and play the animation from frame 1 to whatever. When you use offsets as I did, frame 0 may look a little weird (in this case the hair being out of the way) but it looks normal on all other frames.
http://drowtales.com/~whiteradish/temp/lc-d-43-edit.zip
One thing I did was move the hair out of the way, added a couple of bones to it, then offset it back into place, so now it can move independently of the body, but it's parented to the head.
The reason the arm sleeve was moving strangely was that you didn't have points near one of the sets of fan bones. Bones can't warp areas that don't have points, like straight lines; they move stiffly there. I added 2 points.
I removed half of the arm that was under the sleeve and was poking out when it bent. You don't really need an arm under there, and I prefer to have the sleeve and the arm on the same layer. I also prefer to have the sleeve on the same layer as the shirt, so that the edge of the sleeve can be welded to the shirt, which would prevent it from being disconnected when it bends. I didn't do that here.
I also raised the fill of the forearm to be in front of the upper arm so that when it bends it doesn't bend behind the upper.
I also added 1 bone to the head, to prevent the neck from warping the face when it bent. It would be better to do it with another offset bone, but this worked well enough.
So check the file and play the animation from frame 1 to whatever. When you use offsets as I did, frame 0 may look a little weird (in this case the hair being out of the way) but it looks normal on all other frames.
I am going to discuss just the elbow of the right arm for now.
Looking at your file I notice you are using point binding.
For smooth joints I would recommend flexible binding for the points. Otherwise you would need a bone for each point to get smooth motion using point binding.
Also, the bone strength/envelope doesn't cover the points in the arm. You want the strength of the bones to "overlap" so they share influence over the same points. I find that the bone strength is critical for smooth joints. Sometimes just tiny adjustment can make a huge difference.
You also don't have the arm "split" at the center of the joint. You have 3 sections of the arm.
I would split the arm into just two shapes that "meet" at the joint, forearm and bicep. You would still want to keep the extra points around the joint as they are for adjusting the shape when the bones bend. But these extra points don't need to be a shape.
In my opinion you have too many "fan bones" for the elbow joint. I would only use two in this situation.
The fan bones would be right at the join of the forearm and bicep bones and stick out at 90 degrees on each side.
Make them children of the bicep. Each fan bone then needs a rotation constraint pointing to the forearm bone (you need to name that bone to use it in a constraint). The strength of the constraint is kind of trial and error. I used .7 for each and it looks good.
The bones influence strength should be high enough to cover the points of the joint on their own side (the tip of the elbow). the strength of the forearm and bicep bones would also be raised to cover those points as well. They should all overlap. I would also probably set those points to smooth.
At this point test the bending on frame 1. If you don't like it or need to adjust it turn on the onion skin for frame 1 and on frame 0 move those extra points around the elbow joint closer or further away from the center while watching the the effect on the onionskin out lines for frame 1. You aren't changing the shape of the arm, just moving those points along the same path of the arm shape. This will tighten or loosen the joint by changing how the bones are influencing those points.
At some point you will hit the "sweet spot" (happens for me anyway) where the points are properly moved by the bones for a smooth joint. You may need to adjust the fan bones as well. Just watch the results with the onion skinning.
I also like to have two keys for testing with onion skin. On frame 1 bend it one way, frame two the opposite. Turn on onion skin for both frames to make sure it works in both directions.
-----------------
It sounds like a lot of work bu I actually did all of this to the elbow in your file in just a few minutes but my website is having trouble and I can't upload it.
As soon as it's back on line I can post it for you if you like.
-vern
Looking at your file I notice you are using point binding.
For smooth joints I would recommend flexible binding for the points. Otherwise you would need a bone for each point to get smooth motion using point binding.
Also, the bone strength/envelope doesn't cover the points in the arm. You want the strength of the bones to "overlap" so they share influence over the same points. I find that the bone strength is critical for smooth joints. Sometimes just tiny adjustment can make a huge difference.
You also don't have the arm "split" at the center of the joint. You have 3 sections of the arm.
I would split the arm into just two shapes that "meet" at the joint, forearm and bicep. You would still want to keep the extra points around the joint as they are for adjusting the shape when the bones bend. But these extra points don't need to be a shape.
In my opinion you have too many "fan bones" for the elbow joint. I would only use two in this situation.
The fan bones would be right at the join of the forearm and bicep bones and stick out at 90 degrees on each side.
Make them children of the bicep. Each fan bone then needs a rotation constraint pointing to the forearm bone (you need to name that bone to use it in a constraint). The strength of the constraint is kind of trial and error. I used .7 for each and it looks good.
The bones influence strength should be high enough to cover the points of the joint on their own side (the tip of the elbow). the strength of the forearm and bicep bones would also be raised to cover those points as well. They should all overlap. I would also probably set those points to smooth.
At this point test the bending on frame 1. If you don't like it or need to adjust it turn on the onion skin for frame 1 and on frame 0 move those extra points around the elbow joint closer or further away from the center while watching the the effect on the onionskin out lines for frame 1. You aren't changing the shape of the arm, just moving those points along the same path of the arm shape. This will tighten or loosen the joint by changing how the bones are influencing those points.
At some point you will hit the "sweet spot" (happens for me anyway) where the points are properly moved by the bones for a smooth joint. You may need to adjust the fan bones as well. Just watch the results with the onion skinning.
I also like to have two keys for testing with onion skin. On frame 1 bend it one way, frame two the opposite. Turn on onion skin for both frames to make sure it works in both directions.
-----------------
It sounds like a lot of work bu I actually did all of this to the elbow in your file in just a few minutes but my website is having trouble and I can't upload it.
As soon as it's back on line I can post it for you if you like.
-vern
Last edited by heyvern on Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
http://amanoalzada.iespana.es/Mohostuff ... ified.anme
I have modified a the bones position, its strenght and deleted the shapes of the right arm and the right shirt and include a line in the middle with an extra point and added two new shapes for each.
The problem for the forearm that goed behind the right shirt when bended completely is due to the shirt and the arm are in different layers If you pout them together in the same layer and order the shapes properly you dont have the problem.
Hope it helps. Search for Joints in tips and thechniques section.
Regards
Genete
EDITED: Wow!!! a lot of support in this forum!!!!
I have modified a the bones position, its strenght and deleted the shapes of the right arm and the right shirt and include a line in the middle with an extra point and added two new shapes for each.
The problem for the forearm that goed behind the right shirt when bended completely is due to the shirt and the arm are in different layers If you pout them together in the same layer and order the shapes properly you dont have the problem.
Hope it helps. Search for Joints in tips and thechniques section.
Regards
Genete
EDITED: Wow!!! a lot of support in this forum!!!!
Here's my version:
http://www.lowrestv.com/moho_stuff/lc-d ... w_mod.anme
I added two extra points to the bicep area of the arm near the elbow joint to help smooth it.
-vern
http://www.lowrestv.com/moho_stuff/lc-d ... w_mod.anme
I added two extra points to the bicep area of the arm near the elbow joint to help smooth it.
-vern
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Reese Kaine
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:02 am
- Location: Saint Albans, WV
Uploaded a new version based on Touched's edit (Thank you, BTW), same link.
The only other problems I can think of are kinda slight. One problem I have had was a weird artifact that pops up on the left shoe. Still there, not sure what's causing it.
Another would be from how the skirt reacts to the leg movement. I'm guessing a set of bones would fix that?
The only other problems I can think of are kinda slight. One problem I have had was a weird artifact that pops up on the left shoe. Still there, not sure what's causing it.
Another would be from how the skirt reacts to the leg movement. I'm guessing a set of bones would fix that?