AnimeStudio to DVD

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AnimeStudio to DVD

Postby J. Baker » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:54 am

Here's how to go from AnimeStudio to dvd using all freeware tools.
(these programs are pc based but these settings could be used for mac and linux software)

Tools needed...
HC
VideoCalc
AviSynth
VirtualDub
VirtualDub Gamma Filter (put the gamma filter in VirtualDub's plug-in folder)
BeSweet

AnimeStudio

1.) Export from AnimeStudio at 24fps or 30fps for NTSC and 25fps for PAL.

2.A) Resolutions to export at from AnimeStudio... (we'll resize to proper DVD resolution later)
NTSC 4:3 720x540.
NTSC 16:9 960x540.
PAL 4:3 768x576
PAL 16:9 1024x576

2.B) If you want better anti-aliasing, export at double the width and height. (we'll resize down later)

3.) If your animation lacks gradient colors and has a flat vector style, like something you would see in flash animation. Go to the "Project Settings" and add a bit of "Noise grain". (not a lot. just enough where you can see it close up. this should help with the dvd encoding bitrate later.)

I export without any compression myself. But if you must, use the Lagarith codec.

VirtualDub

1.) Open your video in VirtualDub.

2.) Select "Video, Frame Rate..., Convert to fps:" and type in...
(NTSC, if you animation was 30fps, type 29.97)
(NTSC, if you animation was 24fps, type 23.976)
(PAL, no need to change, as it should stay at 25fps)
.
Select "OK".

3.) Select the "resize" filter. Type in 720x480 for NTSC or 720x576 for PAL. Make sure the "Filter mode" is set to "Precise bilinear". Select "OK".
(Precise bilinear filter gives a little softer anti-aliasing effect)

4.)(if your pc display isn't calibrated you may need to to this. the figure I've given is an example. as an uncalibrated pc display tends to be too bright.)
Select the "gamma" filter. Check the "link" box. Change the value from 1.0 to about 0.80.

5.) (skip this if you already exported from AnimeStudio using the "NTSC safe colors" feature) (although it's best to do it here in VirtualDub then in AnimeStudio because resizing can cause pixels to go out of the 16-235 range)
Select "Video, Filters, Add...". Select the "levels" filter. Output levels, 16 low and 235 high. Select "OK".

Make sure to add the filters in that order.

I export without any compression again. But if you must, use the Lagarith codec.
(video may look squished but don't worry, this is proper for dvd and will be fixed after encoding, as tv's don't have square pixels)

Create AviSynth Script

1.) Open notepad and type... (without quotes)
"AviSource("C:\ "your path" \video.avi")"
"ConvertToYV12()"

Make sure to change "your path" to the location of your video file.
Save it as, File Name: "video.avs" (without quotes) and File Type: "All Files".

Calculate Bitrate

1.) Open the calculator type in the length of your video and disc being used and so forth. Either write down the bitrate settings or remember them. As well as the audio settings. You'll need to know these for the HC encoder and BeSweet. Also, in the calculator there's an option for "Other Assets". Make sure to leave enough room for the menu or anything extra you plan to add. (192kbps is good enough for dvd audio)

HC Encoder

1.) Input: Open the "video.avs" in HC.

2.) Output: Save it as whatever you like.

3.) UnCheck the "interlace" option, as the source is progressive. (if 23.976 fps use "3:2 pulldown")

4.) Check the "autogop" if not already.

5.) Go to the "Advance" tab and set the "scan method" for "zigzag".

6.) Set the other settings based off your calculater settings.

7.) I always select the "make DVD compliant" button to make sure all is well.

8.) Select the "encode" button.

BeSweet

1.) Open your audio in BeSweet and encode it to an AC3 using the same settings you used in the calculator.

I prefer the BeLight gui. Just add the BeSweet files to the BeLight folder in order to use it.

DVD Authoring

You're now ready to open your new audio and video files in a dvd authoring program where you can create menus and so forth. Here's a list... http://www.videohelp.com/tools?s=2#2 :wink:

Just remember you might have to set a delay to the audio when authoring. So test your final work before burning to dvd. I burn to DVD-RW to test on my tv to make sure brightness and other things are alright. This will save you from wasting a non re-writable dvd disc.
Last edited by J. Baker on Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:11 am, edited 67 times in total.
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Postby bupaje » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:43 am

Thanks, bookmarked as I'll need this soon. :)
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Postby jahnocli » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:04 am

Thanks for that -- it's great to have all the info in one place!
You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
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Postby J. Baker » Tue Dec 05, 2006 4:44 am

EDIT I deleted this until further testing.
Last edited by J. Baker on Wed Dec 06, 2006 5:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby v_aviles » Wed Dec 06, 2006 2:44 am

Thanks, J. Baker! This information is very useful!
:D :D :D
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Postby J. Baker » Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:34 am

v_aviles wrote:Thanks, J. Baker! This information is very useful!
:D :D :D

No problem. I'm doing more test, such as minimum pixel width and so forth. Looks like if you use a pixel size of 1 for most of your animation, horizontal aliasing accures. Anyways, like I said, I'm testing a few more things and the tutorial above will be updated. Final testing are being viewed on 3 software dvd decoders and 2 home dvd players.
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Postby J. Baker » Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:07 am

I changed the frame rate for NTSC from 23.976 to 29.97 because I guess when you select "interlace" in HC and encode it, there's actually 59.94 fields. Even though there's no combing. It still displays 2 fields per frame, per NTSC standards. So this is a good thing. Better fluid animation.

If your animation is already at 24fps. Just change it to 29.97 in VirtualDub anyway. And follow the tutorial as mentioned. Or change it to 23.976 in VirtualDub and select "3:2pulldown" instead of "interlace" in HC.
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Postby J. Baker » Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:01 am

Been doing alot more testing and it seems if your animation is mainly flat colors, without gradients or shading, it's best to add a blur filter. Or even if you use black outer lines on your props or characters. This has been updated in the tutorial, if needed.

You will know if this is needed because you'll see hard alias edges and so forth on your chracters or props after encoding to dvd and viewing it on your tv.
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Postby bupaje » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:37 am

Slightly OT but if Wiki's have some spam protection then it might be worth setting up a Wiki for AS -info like this could be in the manual. Might be good to use a Wiki as an online manual of sorts.
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Postby Rasheed » Thu Dec 07, 2006 12:49 pm

@Bupaje: I have tried to set up a wiki once, but it got no response, only defacers. I think you'd better set up an extra forum section (or external forum) for these kinds of things.

An additional Post-Production forum section would be nice for those who want to post about what steps to take between your finished animation and getting your final product released on a medium (web, DVD, TV, theatre, etc.).
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Postby J. Baker » Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:01 pm

My post may be kind of off topic but it does deal with AnimeStudio. As it shows what to export at and so forth. Everything after is just what's needed to get to dvd. And although I do see what your saying. I say why confuse the noob with you have to go here or there for this kind of info. I think it belongs here, on the forum, as long as it's AnimeStudio related. I hope the moderators see that and don't delete this topic. Maybe I should email Mike.

EDIT: I sent an email to see what's best for these kind of topics.
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Postby Lost Marble » Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:35 am

I think this post is fine for "tips and tricks". One of the things people often ask is how to show your animations on TV. It's kind of a complicated question, depending on what hardware and software you have, so here I think are some helpful tips.

-Mike
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Postby J. Baker » Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:54 am

Lost Marble wrote:I think this post is fine for "tips and tricks". One of the things people often ask is how to show your animations on TV. It's kind of a complicated question, depending on what hardware and software you have, so here I think are some helpful tips.

-Mike

Thanks Mike! :wink:

And if you happen to read this again. I was wondering on why you went with different black and white levels on the "NTSC color safe" option? I believe you went with 12-233 instead of 16-235. My only guess would be to compensate for the color difference. Since tv's have brighter displays then computer screens.
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Postby Rasheed » Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:20 pm

J. Baker wrote:Since tv's have brighter displays then computer screens.

Some computer LCD screen nowadays hurt to your eyes because of their brightness.

I think the problem is NTSC. I was a bad standard to begin with. Hopefully it will be replaced with a HD standard within a few years, when most people have switched from glass tube tv to more modern technologies.
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Postby DarthFurby » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:19 am

Bookmarked. I needed this. Thanks!!!
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